A zip or turbo stove is a wood stove which allows you to force fresh air into your stove.
Today, I want to tell you how to create a handmade mini wood stove with electric blow.
A zip stove is a small construction that includes a few stainless cups, a small drive and a fan working on AAA batteries.
Overall weight of the heater and power elements is 333 grams (which is less than the most of heaters together with a gas cylinder).
A ready zip stove for tourists can be purchased anywhere. But I want to make it myself, besides, it won’t be worse than a shop-bought one.
I have decided to create a zip stove from stainless cups. This way, the object will be better from aesthetic standpoint (reminding a manufactured heater) and be resistant to corrosion.
Instead of cups, tin cans can be used, but you should figure out appropriate sizes.
Dimensions of ready-to-use heater:
diameter — 11,5 cm
height — 12 cm
weight (with the batteries)- 333 grams
We will need:
1cup from stainless metal with capacity of 1000 ml (diameter 11,5 cm)
2 cups from stainless metal with capacity of 800 ml (diameter 10,5 cm)
1cup from stainless metal with capacity of 300 ml (diameter 7,5 cm)
1 meter of steel-like wire with diameter 2mm
3 small but bolts
A motor removed from an old DVD (a motor from a toy will do, as well)
3 batteries of ААА type
A case for batteries (can be found in any electronic store). I used a case for a torch.
A small piece of tin (to fix the motor)
Instruments: drill, angle grinder, power jigsaw, abrasive cloth, riffler, pliers (you list may be somewhat different).
How to create a handmade zip stove
Let’s start. This is how all elements of the heater look.
We will start from the firing chamber. Remove the handle of the 800 ml cup. Now to need to cut holes along the perimeter in the upper part of the cup. I have made 8 openings about 1.5 cm diameter each. First, make holes with a smaller bore, only then use the bigger one – stainless metal is hard to drill with usual bores.
Now take the power jigsaw and drill the bottom on the cup leaving a 1 cm allowance on the edges of the cup. Mark and drill 2mm holes along the margins of the bottom. Pieces of wire should be inserted into the openings, and their ends should be bent. You will have grate-like bottom as shown on the photo.
Done. Now you can start making the body. Take the bigger cup (1000 ml). The handle should also be removed. Cut the bottom out using the power jigsaw leaving almost no edges – firing chamber will be inserted into this opening. It is important to cut out the bottom of the appropriate diameter so that the chamber would sit firmly with its rim resting on the edges. Before cutting, measure everything properly.
Firing chamber with the frame looks the following way.
The next stage is cutting of an opening for blow. Its size should be about 1.5 c,m less than the diameter of the cup (I made in 6 cm wide). So that the opening was even, encircle the smaller cup with a pencil on paper, draw a smaller circle inside it (about 7-8 mm from the edge), cut out, apply the circle to the cup, and encircle it with a marker pen. After that, take the power jigsaw.
Stand for the pot. Take a 800 ml cup and make the same holes in its upper part – but cut only 6 openings out of 8. Cut out the upper part with an angle grinder or a fretsaw (average height 4.5 cm). The place where 2 more openings were supposed to be is cut out (when the heater is be ready, this opening will be used for adding wood). We have the following piece as the result.
Make fixing for the heater the following way. Make small cuts and bend the hooks with pliers (3 pieces).
Electric blow of heater
The frame for the electric blow will be made of a small 300 ml cup. Down with the handle. Now to need to make a figured cut from the side of the bottom so that the cup could firmly fit to the heater frame without leaving big gaps.
It is not easy to make such a cut. I recommend marking it with a marker pen by eye first, and then use the abrasive cloth to remove metal gradually and attach it from time to time.
The fixture on the frame can be created any way. I have drilled a hole in the frame and attaches a small bent piece of metal (waste that left) – got a crook in the result.
As for the smaller cup, I didn’t have to invent anything – it already had hooks for the handle.
To make the fan, I took a small circle from stainless metal that left after cutting out the bottom of the bigger cup. Do not forget to apply glue on the point of fixture to make it firmer.
Make the fan from metal. Trying to make the turbo stove light, I made the first fan from plastic. It melted after the first 30 seconds of using.
The motor was taken from an old DVD player, but any other small motor will go. I joined two wires to it. One goes to the frame; another is connected to batteries (thus, one wire goes from batteries to the frame, another – to the motor). But both wires can be connected directly to the batteries. To fix the motor, I cut out two stripes from tin, bent them as shown on the photo, drilled holes and firmly attached them to the motor with a capron thread.
Drill similar holes in the circle and fix everything with two small nuts. To prevent heating, try to place the motor with the fan as far from the heater frame as possible.
Power. I used three batteries of AAA type. I took the case from a torch. I attached wires to two contacts of the case: one is joined with the frame, another – with a motor wire.
A ready zip stove looks the following way
All elements fit perfectly into one another.
It is important to remember that prior to attaching the electric blow to the fired heater, you should start up the fan first so that its contents did not melt. The fan should be switched off only after detachment of the blow.